Featured image credit: Difference Engine
Ever wanted to eat Jell-O in an enchanted forest? Then mark your calendars for October 18. It’s the long-awaited date for the Grand Reopening of Clifton’s Republic, an event only bested by the Griffith Park Merry-Go-Round on the “when’s this going to re-open?” scale. While portions of the eccentric cafeteria-turned-multi-level cocktail bar have been hosting soft opens since the summer, starting with the Pacific Seas tiki bar level, this will be the first time since the full venue has opened to the public since some brief windows in 2022. This means the Gothic Bar, Monarch Bar, and Forest Glen as well.
The Golden Rule of Clifford Clinton
Formerly Clifton’s Cafeteria, Clifton’s Republic looms over the nearby intersection of Broadway and Seventh Street in Downtown LA. It was the second Clifton’s location in what was originally a chain of eight affordable, yet outlandish cafeterias. Generously sized at 16,000 square feet, Clifton’s served 10,000 patrons daily in its prime.
The “Clifton” of Clifton’s Republic was actually a man named Clifford Clinton, arriving at the name Clifton’s with the fusion of his first and last names. Espousing strong Christian values, Clinton built a reputation for generosity by handing out free meals during America’s Great Depression. That spirit carried over to the first Clifton’s location that operated under “Clifton’s Golden Rule.” Pay what you can. And if you can’t pay? Eat your fill anyway.
The Largest Cafeteria in the World
Clinton purchased the location that would several decades later become Clifton’s Republic in 1935. It had also served as a cafeteria, even before Clinton’s acquisition. But under Clinton’s guidance, it would grow to become the largest cafeteria in the world, not to mention LA’s oldest.
Hungry patrons would line up down Broadway, queueing for traditional American cuisine including meatloaf, roast beef, turkey, and sides like mashed potatoes, corn, and greens. Dishes and sides were purchased on a per-item basis, leaning into the cafeteria model of the establishment.
Clifton’s Downtown Oasis
But Clifton’s didn’t build its reputation with piecemeal dinners and generosity. No, they built it with taxidermied lions. And fabricated redwood trees obscuring multi-level support beams. And neon-lit grottos of rustic flora. Even the occasional animatronic raccoon.
Clifton’s was always a bizarre experience… one that Clifton’s Republic hopes to perpetuate. Over the years, the Clinton family stretched the expectations of a cafeteria, creating a surreal oasis in the middle of Downtown LA. A 20-foot waterfall tumbled into a manmade stream that ran the length of the dining room. A taxidermied moose stared blankly from the walls at patrons eating their simple cafeteria fare. And amidst it all stood a minute chapel, bringing everything back to Clifford Clinton’s faith.
The effect was tied together by a rustic mural, courtesy of local artist Einar C. Petersen. And the inspiration this odd decor had on Clifton’s patrons resounded more strongly than any free meal.
The Decline of Clifton’s Cafeteria
Yet, charity remained in the hearts of the Clinton family. In 1946, Clinton released control of the eccentric cafeteria to three of his children. This allowed him and his wife, Nelda, to focus on their new passion, the Meals for Millions charity organization.
Clinton bowed out when Clifton’s Cafeteria was in its top form. But after the 1940s, interest in the strange cafeteria with the big heart waned. Still, the Clinton family recognized the value of the endeavor. In 2006, Robert Clinton, son of Clifford, purchased the building that housed the cafeteria bringing over 70 years of renting to its conclusion. Yet, business continued to slow. By 2009, Clifton’s Cafeteria was serving 2,000 people on a good day. It was a far cry from those 10,000-customer days of the ‘40s.
The Rise of Clifton’s Republic
Around 2010, Andrew Meieran, an entrepreneur with a history in real estate development and entertainment, purchased Clifton’s from the Clinton family with an eye to reimagine it as Clifton’s Republic. He spent years upgrading the facility while changing as little about the historic decor as possible. The 1963 aluminum facade that most Angelenos would recognize was removed, revealing the original 1904 facade, commemorating a new era that appreciated its history.
True to the wonderment that seems to radiate from Clifton’s, the transformation to Clifton’s Republic revealed a shocking surprise. After removing a partition wall, the renovation crew discovered a glowing neon light that appeared to have been glowing since the earliest days of the cafeteria. At 77 years, it’s likely it holds the record for the longest a neon light has stayed continuously lit.
Not the Clifton’s You Remember
The COVID-19 pandemic, among other setbacks, kept Clifton’s Republic in a prolonged state of soft opening. But the grand opening is fast approaching. Angelenos expecting the same nostalgic experience that Clifton’s Cafeteria offered will be disappointed. Clifton’s Republic is a largely different affair with different menu items and even frequent live performances. And Cliff Clinton’s Golden Rule is relegated to the past. No one’s drinking for free. But for the Angelenos not turned off by drinking a cocktail beside a taxidermied lion in prime Instagram-worthy lighting, you’d do well to mark your calendars for October 18.
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